The John Lobb brand is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive "click" of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.
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